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Another season of fashion shows is upon us, as we look to New York, London, Milan and Paris for the spring/summer 2023 collections.
After the past two years of pandemic-related disruptions and cancellations, we’re set for a relatively normal month of shows – aside from in London, which coincides with the official period of national mourning, following the death of Her Majesty Queen Elizabeth II. While shows from the likes of Harris Reed, Erdem and Christopher Kane are looking likely to still go ahead, a number have had to be rearranged due to closures in the capital, particularly on the day of the funeral itself.
In New York, we have Fendi celebrating the 25th anniversary of the iconic Baguette, alongside the latest collections from Michael Kors, Tommy Hilfiger and Tom Ford, while we can look forward to new-season shows from Versace, Prada and Giorgio Armani in Milan, and Dior, Chanel and Louis Vuitton in Paris.
Below, see catwalk highlights from the spring/summer 2023 collections so far:
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Michael Kors transported his front-row guests to the ultimate luxury getaway for his ‘urban resort’ spring/summer 2023 show – a collection of sleek, city styling set against a backdrop of lush greenery.
“Urban resort to me is the best of both worlds, it’s the luxury and sleek elegance of city life with the laid-back glamour you find in the best resorts,” says Michael Kors. “This collection uses a lot of elements that you normally find on holiday—lots of white, lots of bareness, soft caftans, bare strappy sandals—mixed with the crisp tailoring and polish you need in an urban environment.”
There was an emphasis on movement and light, accentuated by shimmering liquid fabrics and high-shine sequins, providing the sort of pared-back glamour for which the brand has become known – designed to be worn in whichever luxurious destination you happen to be jetting off to next.
Fendi opened New York Fashion Week this season with a show celebrating the 25th anniversary of the Baguette – and creative director Kim Jones, along with Silvia Venturini Fendi, enlisted an impressive line-up of collaborators for the occasion: Marc Jacobs, Sarah Jessica Parker and Tiffany & Co.
“I didn’t want to do a traditional ‘collection’ for the anniversary – rather it’s a celebration of a time, of the moment the Baguette became famous,” said Jones. “I relate that time to a sense of freedom in excess and fun – both qualities the Baguette possesses.”
The result was a joyful tribute to the iconic piece – as interpreted by each of the creative collaborators – spanning both clothing and accessories: from classic handbags to minuscule clutches, wristlets, pins and even jewellery.
“The spring/summer 2023 collection is defined by opposing instincts: to experiment freely and to pare everything back,” explained Tory Burch, of her Nineties-inspired show which put material and silhouette at the forefront.
Models including Emily Ratajkowski walked the runway wearing luxurious fabrics designed to move with the body in an “exploration of form” – think superfine knits, sporty separates, sculptural tailoring and transluscent layers – all accentuated by clean lines and block colours. “This collection is personal and intuitive, drawing on my memories of the ’90s when I moved to New York,” the designer continued. “I wanted to look at my signatures with a fresh perspective, reflecting what feels modern now.”
Trend takeaway: transluscent fabrics
Frances Hodgson’s much-loved classic, The Secret Gardenwas the starting point for Wes Gordon’s latest collection – a beloved book from his childhood – and its romantic depiction of nature and beauty.
“A garden of visual delights, this collection is unabashedly romantic, with oversize balloon sleeves in hand-painted tea roses and peonies and a maximalist verve thanks to matching head-to-toe accessories,” read the show notes. Indeed, florals played a central role throughout, from 3D rosettes and brightly coloured prints to sculptural hemlines “that take on lives of their own in movement, like undulating rows of flowers in bloom in abundance”.
Trend takeaway: romantic florals
Tommy Hilfiger returned to NYFW this season with the Tommy Factory multiverse experience, featuring both a star-studded catwalk (Ashley Graham, Lila Moss, Winnie Harlow, Julia Fox) and front row (Kate Moss, Kris Jenner, John Legend).
The show, which “blended IRL and URL worlds”, was inspired by the legacy and cultural impact of Andy Warhol, and saw a the physical (very rain-soaked) runway, accompanied by a virtual avatar-strewn livestream. The collection itself, which “remixed traditional Americana codes with a contemporary, streetwear-inspired twist”, featured everything from the new TH monogram (created in partnership with illustrator and graphic designer Fergus Purcell), to pieces from the new collaboration with London Fashion Week favourite Richard Quinn.
Trend takeaway: sporty streetwear
Jason Wu’s latest collection celebrated the joy of dressing up and the post-pandemic rebirth of America’s fashion capital, New York City – the place that the designer has called home for 22 years.
In an homage to the great American designers, the clothes were designed to highlight the beauty of each garment’s interior through inside-out construction, creating a key detail seen throughout the collection. “People are dressing up again and now every moment is a moment and why shouldn’t it be?” said Wu. “If the last two years have taught us anything, it’s that these moments are fleeting, and every second should be celebrated.”
Trend takeaway: inside-out construction
Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez were inspired by water “as a symbol of life” for their spring/summer 2023 show, with a collection also heavily influenced by their personal histories.
“The sensuous and fiery qualities of Lazaro’s Latin roots coupled with the pragmatism and grit of Jack’s American experience blend to create a narrative at once effervescent and urban,” she show notes explained. The clothes accentuated the contours of the body, with figure-hugging knitwear, ruffles to add volume and fringing to exaggerate movement.
Trend takeaway: high-fashion fringing
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