New York Fashion Week kicked off the SS23 season with a packed schedule that included home-grown heavyweights as well as European luxury visitors.
Tommy Hilfiger put on a star-studded spectacular for his return to the schedule after a three-year hiatus. Kate Moss, Kourtney Kardashian Barker, Travis Barker and singer Shawn Mendes celebrated his return by attending the show, held in Brooklyn.
Michael Kors, Tom Ford and Coach also flew the flag for US fashion. Glamour prevailed at Kors, who showed flowing sequinned dresses and clean-cut preppy tailoring. Tom Ford’s show was characteristically sexy, with a sprinkling of statement metallic suits and disco-inspired , shimmering gowns. Coach took a more casual approach, with oversized patchwork leather jackets and vintage-inspired, letterman sportswear taking centre stage.
And the city played host to some tourists – Italian men’s and womenswear label Marni showed in New York for the first time, and dedicated its SS23 collection to the eternity of the sun, seen in fiery red and orange hues. Countrymate Fendi celebrated 25 years of its Baguette bag with a collection dedicated to the style. The label collaborated with fellow designer Marc Jacobs, Sarah Jessica Parker, Tiffany & Co and Japanese luggage brand Porter on selected looks to help it celebrate.
Drapers looks at the six biggest trends from New York Fashion Week.
Fashion is equipped for exploring next season: catwalks were full of layered looks perfect for heading outdoors. Fendi’s special anniversary collection had utilitarian details, such as reflective straps, gloves and bumbags.
At Tommy Hilfiger, a collaboration with London designer Richard Quinn produced an oversized puffer coat in Quinn’s signature bold floral prints. Coach furnished its models with oversized safari-style jackets, satchel-shaped bags and baseball caps, while Altuzurra opted for multiple, top- heavy layers, including untucked shirts and styling two sweatshirts on the same model, topped off with outerwear.
Designers did the hippie shake at New York Fashion Week. Proenza Schouler showed homespun with added glamour to handmade pieces: crochet dresses in shimmering yarns and white knitted camisole tops came complete with tassels at the shoulder.
Italian design house Marni played tourist in the Big Apple, and showed a collection dedicated to the sun, echoed in hues ranging from pale yellow to dusky lilac, and pale white. Crochet was a continuous texture within the collection, used for womenswear cut-out tops, and lightweight sweaters.
Delicate, see-through fabrics were a mainstay of the New York catwalks. At Tory Burch, looks included a play on transparent tailoring – for example, a sheer shirt and trousers in a subtle shade of lilac.
The look was ramped up at LaQuan Smith, which showed a series of barely there looks, including a cobalt blue mini-dress with flowing train. Deveaux returned to the catwalk after a three-year hiatus, layering a sheer dress and shirt with utility detail pockets.
The city that never sleeps has returned to workwear, but with a relaxed approach for the summer season. Amy Smilovic, creative director of womenswear brand Tibi, showed a casual suiting silhouette. Blazers and wide-leg trousers were oversized and styled with a round- necked top or faded print T-shirt.
Peter Do also showed oversized tailoring, some looks were finished with frayed, raw hems, adding to the relaxed effect. Emerging label Luar played with proportions, emphasising the shoulders on a pinstripe shirt, and deconstructing the classic suit by teaming a reversed blazer with a classic white shirt.
It would not be New York without a fierce dose of animal print. Buzzy brand Khaite featured grey-toned snakeprint across its collection which was used for sharply cut belted jackets, figure- hugging pencil skirts, loosely tailored shirts and high-waisted trousers.
Over at legacy brand Hudson, leopard print reigned in a 1970s-inspired suit in the bold print. Emerging designer Victor Glenaud showed classic leopard print, seen in a variety of dress shapes, from figure-skimming pencil silhouettes, to halterneck mini-hemlines, crop tops and leggings.
All that glitters…
New York is the city of polished glamour, and that was reflected on next season’s catwalks, which were full of shimmering metallic designs. Jason Wu showed a 1920s-inspired flapper dress adorned with gold tassels.
Precious metals were a highlight of designer Gabriela Hearst’s SS23 collection, where models took to the catwalk in a fluid jumpsuit and slip dress that resembled liquid gold, while a suit gave a structured approach to the trend. Michael Kors paid tribute to the golden girls with Shimmering sequin polo necks and dresses.