What To Expect From The SS23 Shows

Hold on tight, because the fashion month carousel is about to accelerate into motion. The spring/summer 2023 womenswear shows are returning in full force since the onset of the Covid-19 pandemic, with blockbuster brands back on jam-packed schedules across New York , London, Milan and Paris.

The season will showcase some hotly anticipated debuts from a host of newly installed creative directors at heritage brands, including Vogue’s Fashion New World portfolio star Maximilian Davis at Salvatore Ferragamo. Asia-based labels will also return to Europe, including Tokyo’s Comme des Garçons and Issey Miyake, after a two-year hiatus. And there will be a host of debut runway shows from a spectrum of emerging names, from BFC/Vogue Designer Fashion Fund 2022 nominee Chopova Lowena in London to Act N°1, supported by Valentino, in Milan. It’s also the season of musical chairs, with labels upping sticks to show in different cities, including Fendi, who will present a landmark show in New York, and Paris stalwart Raf Simons, who will show in London. The Big Apple will also play host to Vogue World, a live editorial fashion show and street fair, in celebration of Vogue‘s 130th anniversary.

Here’s the Vogue guide to the spring/summer 2023 shows in the Big Four.

Model Indira Scott (standing) and designer Hillary Taymour, both wearing Collina Strada in Vogue‘s Fashion New World portfolio. Fashion Editor: Jorden Bickham. Hair, Evanie Frausto; make-up, Marcelo Gutierrez. Photographed by Annie Leibovitz.

New York

9 – 14 September 2022
The Big Apple is becoming something of a Grand Tour destination for European labels, with Marni, Cos and Fendi holding shows in the city. The latter Roman brand is staging a spectacle in celebration of the 25th anniversary of its iconic Fendi Baguette. Vogue too is in the party mood, staging its inaugural Vogue World in celebration of its 130th anniversary. The live editorial fashion show will feature our favourite looks from the autumn/winter 2022 collections from brands including Balenciaga, Collina Strada and Ralph Lauren.

Spring/summer 2023 also sees the return of several blockbuster New York brands to the schedule, including Tommy Hilfiger, Eckhaus Latta and Area, while the city’s experimental talent, including Puppets & Puppets, Collina Strada, Interior and Kenneth Nicholson, will all show. Expect to see all the usual US big hitters, including Coach, Michael Kors, Gabriela Hearst, Carolina Herrera and Tory Burch, with a schedule opened by Proenza Schouler (celebrating its 20th anniversary) and closed by Tom Ford.


16 – 20 September 2022
There’s a real buzz in the air in London, which has in recent seasons seen its schedule depleted of homegrown blockbuster names. For spring/summer 2023, both Burberry and JW Anderson are returning to the city, and Paris stalwart Raf Simons will close out Friday’s shows with a bang. BFC/Vogue Designer Fashion Fund 2022 nominees Chopova Lowena and Tove are staging their debut shows, Christopher Kane, KNWLS and Dilara Fındıkoğlu have returned to the schedule, and SS Daley, Di Petsa and Supriya Lele will again be ones to watch.


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