The 1990s were back on the agenda at New York Fashion Week’s spring-summer 2023 shows. ― AFP pic
Tuesday, 20 Sep 2022 8:24 AM MYT
NEW YORK, Sept 20 ― The casual style that reigned during the pandemic is being replaced by a more carefree and festive take on fashion. The recent New York Fashion Week, which ended on September 14, was full of colour, glitter, transparency and various flesh-flashing looks, all still channeling the decade of the moment, the 1990s.
Ahh, nostalgia. Fashion may be an eternal cycle, but since the end of the pandemic, a strong trend has persisted for the 1990s ― and that doesn’t look to be waning. Faced with the social, environmental and economic crises, a need to get back to the basics, for a certain simplicity, all with a carefree feel, seemed almost essential, and this is being reflected first and foremost ― as is often the case ― in our wardrobes. At New York Fashion Week, this gave rise to a light, breezy wardrobe, with mini-skirts and maxi-transparency, a profusion of sequins, and strong, bold colours.
Sensuality on show
Some fashion trends seem to be making a lasting impression on our wardrobes. And the paradox seems to be reaching new heights, as some inspirations show no sign of abating in the months to come. After two seasons, you might have thought that the mini- skirt would gradually disappear from our closets, but no. On the contrary. Revived by Miu Miu two seasons ago, the micro mini-skirt intends to take an even bigger place ― and lose a few more centimetres ― for the spring-summer 2023 season , as seen on the catwalks of Ekhaus Latta, Prabal Gurung, Maisie Wilen, and LaQuan Smith.
But this sensuality, a symbol of emancipation and self-affirmation, also translates into a host of sheer, transparent looks, with or without visible lingerie. There were high briefs on show at Jason Wu and Marni, bras as tops at Bevza, Tom Ford , and LaQuan Smith, and corseted clothes at Monse. Lightness will definitely be on the agenda, and for women as well as men, as seen at some fashion houses that gave pride of place to non-binary collections.
New York gets festive
In contrast to these gloomy times, fashion will take a festive turn next summer. This will be reflected in a colour palette usually associated with more festive moments, such as the Holiday season, rather than summer, with an emphasis on golden shades, and glitter and sequins. It’s about flashy silhouettes, but it’s certainly not an ode to the disco era of the ’70s, since these colours and sparkling details are mainly seen on minimalist, fuss-free outfits. Tom Ford, Michael Kors, and Christian Siriano are among the labels that have set the tone for the upcoming season.
By day, bright colours will be in the spotlight. After pink, which has been everywhere this season, will come electric shades of orange. This is clearly the colour that dominated festivities during the Big Apple’s shows, seen in monochrome looks most of the time , on the runways of Marni, Eckhaus Latta, and LaQuan Smith.
As we’ve seen, designers have once again been inspired by the 1990s when shaping women’s wardrobes for spring/summer 2023. On the catwalks, this influence was seen in the presence, time and again, of low-rise pants, most often matched with bras or crop tops, in dynamic and refined looks, and with various takes on layering. The brands Tibi and Tory Burch have notably embraced this return in the 1990s. ― ETX Studio