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The days may be getting darker but know that the future’s bright: rainbow coloured eye make-up has appeared all over the catwalks so far this fashion month.
The spring/summer 2023 trend for bright eyes began in New York and continued at London Fashion Week – which just came to a close. Now, as the shows go on in Milan – followed by Paris – we predict the make-up movement will snowball , building on this year’s preoccupation with mood-boosting beauty.
At Alice + Olivia (pictured top), make-up artist and executive director of global beauty at Too Faced, Elyse Reneau, applied the brand’s Killer Liner in either turquoise or pink in bubble shapes on the models’ upper eyelids and below the lower lash lines. “We injected these pops of colour in a fun and accessible way that anyone could recreate at home,” she says of the looks which were simple but bold.
Elsewhere in New York, at Batsheva make-up artist Francelle Daly adorned some of the models’ eyelids in graphically shaped blue glitter. Meanwhile, the Bibhu Mohapatra runway saw models showcase eyeliner in orange or yellow hues floating below their brow bones, and at Prabal Gurung swathes of either lavender or turquoise punctuated otherwise bare-faced beauty looks.
Over in London at Halpern, “it was a disco-inspired take on a statement eye,” explains make-up artist Lynsey Alexander. “Vivid eyeliners were encrusted in sequins from the collection to create an upbeat, vibrant look. Boyish brows framed the eyes and neutral lips complemented the look.” She used Nars’ High Pigment Longwear Eyeliners (in shades The Strip and Santa Monica Boulevard) with the Climax Mascara to execute the eye make-up.
An array of bright glitter also circled eyes at Mark Fast – from purple to lime green and bright blue. At Paul & Joe, again, all eyes were on graphic liner in either limoncello yellow, pistachio green, marshmallow pink, coral orange or hot pink , each matching an individual look from the collection. Nodding to both Sixties psychedelia and Nineties grunge, make-up artist Georgina Graham use the Paul & Joe Beaute Eye Duo shades in 03 Sour Lollipop; 07 Marsh Bird; and 08 Tropezienne.
For the 16Arlington show, renowned artist Isamaya Ffrench took the trend to the lower lash lines. Pastels and chromatics were used on the waterline, she explained, using the shades Initiator, Machine and Sweat from her own brand’s Industrial Colour Pigments eyeshadow palette.
Besides brightness, one thing all these shows had in common was that, regardless of the varying shapes and textures of eye make-up, singular blocks of colours were chosen. Therefore, for something that seemingly requires a painterly approach, this trend is relatively simple to adopt. Plus, when focusing on the eyes like this, minimal effort is required elsewhere with your make-up. As Alexander put it when talking about her Halpern creations, think “pared-back skin”. That way, the colour, sparkle or shine of the eyes can take centre stage.